When the road is not an option, set sail instead. Swan Hellenic offers a safe and luxurious way to discover the untapped beauty of West Africa—from Tema to Dakar aboard the luxurious SH Vega
They’re no strangers to adventure, wildlife, or boat travel: but my announcing plans to explore West Africa sent close family members into a mild panic. Countries like Sierra Leone, Liberia, The Gambia, and Guinea-Bissau had never been on their travel radar. They couldn’t quite grasp what drew me to this journey – there would be no iconic safari landscapes or luxury camps in sight. So, why go?
Crossing borders in countries scarred by the transatlantic slave trade, colonialism and civil unrest – some of the most impoverished and unpredictable places on earth – had everyone applauding my bravery. Their anxiety only subsided slightly when I explained that the journey would take place aboard the SH Vega, a small yet mighty exploration ship by Swan Hellenic. This particular voyage is available only once a year when the ship repositions itself from one hemisphere to another.
For many, visits to Africa conjure up images of Safari and the Big Five – lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants, and buffaloes. West Africa offers something different: a rich tapestry of history and culture that’s often overlooked. Like many aboard, from Harvard alumni to Chinese businessmen and Russian tech exiles, I was eager to tick off new countries from my list. As a female traveller, the idea of navigating these regions by road would’ve required more courage than I could muster alone.
A Floating Hotel
The itinerary promised a rich blend of culture and education rivalling any course in global politics and history. All I had to do was get a yellow fever vaccination and arrive at the airport. Swan Hellenic handled everything else – visas, port charges, and permits – while my passport was safely stowed away by the crew, who ensured smooth transitions at every port. The ship was to be my home for two weeks, and a sanctuary from the rigours of travel in a region where infrastructure is often challenging.
With just 152 passengers and something close to a 1:1 crew-to-guest ratio, personalised service was a given once on board. My suite on the sixth deck was a serene retreat, featuring a private balcony, minimalist Swedish design and even a crackling ‘fireplace’.
Days at sea were a delight, with a well-equipped gym, spa, sauna, jacuzzi, and a small but elegant pool. Meals catered to all dietary needs, with fresh juice stations at breakfast and a mix of buffet-style and à la carte offerings. Under the guidance of Executive Chef Paulo Herrera, we enjoyed Michelin-level experiences. A sommelier ensured a steady flow of wines at dinner, many of them small-batch vintages from both New and Old-World wineries. Cocktails were sipped on the upper deck lounge during pre-cap and recap sessions, as well as quiz nights. There’s nothing more bonding than discovering that female hyenas have a pseudo-penis—a surprising quirk of anatomy that had most of us doing double-takes and reaching for Google.
Voyage of Discovery
Fragments of West Africa have imprinted themselves on my mind – a kaleidoscope of vivid moments, too many to neatly contain. What stands out? The quirky geleh geleh taxis of Liberia, with their fur trim, and the West African women, wrapped in eye-popping fabrics, babies securely tied to their backs, gracefully balancing baskets on their heads as they glide over potholed streets like seasoned runway models. Chaotic markets brimming with obroni wawu – “dead white man’s clothes” from distant lands. Providence Island, where freed slaves once sought a new beginning, its history carved into the earth itself. Outside the National Museum in Monrovia, bulletproof cars from President Samuel Doe’s era stand as stark reminders of Liberia’s violent past, a legacy of the civil wars that ravaged the nation long after independence. The lively fish market in Elmina, where the air buzzes as pirogues return with the day’s catch, and the cheery “Hello Blondie!” from a vendor cutting through the noise. Finally, the haunting ruins of Bolama, Guinea-Bissau’s forgotten capital, where the jungle steadily reclaims what history left behind.
Daily talks and lectures from SH Vega’s Exploration Team and expert lecturers transformed what might have been just another luxury cruise into a true expedition. Historian Cliff Pereira introduced us to the significance of masks in West African societies. His insights came alive when we reached the 88-island Bijagós Archipelago in Guinea Bissau, greeted by a traditional dance that mirrored the cultural richness he had described. How can we forget the Bijagós young man, lost in a trance as he performed a spiritual bull dance, the entire village moving with him in a powerful ritual of their culture?
Dr. Allan Dean’s lecture on the Scramble for Africa hit home as we witnessed the lingering influence of global powers. The Berlin Conference of 1884– 1885, which partitioned Africa among European powers, set the stage for the continent’s exploitation – and its effects are still visible today. The ruins of Bunce Island, whispering of the dark legacy of the transatlantic slave trade, contrasted sharply with Turkey’s new stadiums in Côte d’Ivoire and China’s ambitious infrastructure projects in Abidjan. The region’s story of external forces shaping its future was vividly brought to life.
It was an ambitious plan to fit in a visit to the Île de Gorée on our last day. Located just off the coast of Dakar, this UNESCO World Heritage site was a key point in the transatlantic slave trade from the 15th to the 19th centuries. The Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves), with its cramped cells where enslaved Africans were held before being shipped across the Atlantic, serves as a solemn reminder of this tragic history. However, the island has since been reclaimed by a vibrant artistic community. Despite its history, the place felt alive – clean, tranquil streets lined with brightly coloured houses and blooming flowers, and artists proudly displaying their freshly painted works, hoping to catch the eye of a passerby. As I wandered through the streets, it was clear that Île de Gorée is no mere tourist trap. Goats roamed freely around the main square, their hooves quietly tapping under the shade of ancient baobabs. Local women, their hands working deftly, gathered at a communal space under the open sky to do laundry. Children raced each other back to the ferry, eager to return home to the mainland.
This was Africa as I had never seen it before. I met an artist who uses the colourful sand technique to create his work, which I purchased for just $10 as a memento of this unforgettable trip.
Life-Changing Experiences
Visiting Africa wouldn’t be complete without experiencing its wildlife. The Kakum National Park Canopy Walk in Ghana, near Cape Coast, was an adrenaline-pumping experience. The suspension bridges, designed by Canadian engineers, allowed us to walk among the treetops. The view of the rainforest from the tallest platform, 50 metres high, during ‘The Golden Hour’ (when the temperatures began to cool and the magnificent plants were bathed in golden light, with birds and bats becoming active), was mesmerising. Completely entranced, we needed a firm reminder from park rangers to keep moving; nightfall in this part of the world comes faster than you’d expect.
Another deeply moving experience occurred in Sierra Leone at the Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, just outside Freetown. The sanctuary, which cares for around 119 chimpanzees, plays a crucial role in fighting the illegal bushmeat trade and educating visitors about the poachers’ impact on the local population. During our visit, we learned about the devastating impact of poaching on chimpanzee populations, including the harrowing fact that baby chimpanzees are often sold for as little as $10 to $20.
In Senegal, we explored the Bandia Wildlife Reserve, a private sanctuary committed to restoring and safeguarding African wildlife that had vanished due to human activity. This reserve, spanning about 3,500 hectares, has successfully reintroduced various species such as giraffes, rhinos, zebras and antelopes, many of which were brought in from South Africa’s Kruger National Park and other regions.
To cap off the journey, we took a leisurely boat ride around La Somone Lagoon, a stunning coastal spot on the Petite Côte known for its rich biodiversity. We observed grey pelicans, flamingos, herons, and pied kingfishers – just a few of the 175 bird species that call the lagoon home.
After disembarking SH Vega and resting in a suite of a five-star hotel, waiting for my flight, I noticed that the big-screen TV had a security lock on it – anti[1]vandal, so it wouldn’t get stolen. This contrast reminded me that the key to a visit to this part of the world is to embrace the challenges, ditch the Western expectations, and embrace the fact that life here follows a different rhythm.
The next journey of the “Crucible of Africa” aboard the SH Vega is scheduled for 20th April 2025: a 13-night voyage from Tema, Ghana, to Dakar, Senegal, priced at approximately £5,981 per person, based on double occupancy, with all-inclusive amenities. Some excursions may incur an additional charge. Visit swanhellenic.com for more details.
