Global cuisineGuide to London

ADVENTURES AROUND THE WORLD WITH CHEF TOM AIKENS

Tom AikensTom Aikens

THE MICHELIN STAR CHEF EXPLAINS THE PLACES, FOOD AND CITIES THAT INSPIRE HIM THE MOST

WAWW meets London-based Brit Chef to talk about the places, cities and countries that inspire him most. Tom Aikens grew up in Norfolk England and spent most of his summer in Auvergne, in the south of France, which really piqued his interest in the world of French culture and cuisine. He attended school at Norwich, one of the best catering colleges in the UK and landed his first job in London working with David Cavalier at Cavaliers in Battersea, London. A plethora of top restaurants soon followed, including working at La Tante Claire with chef Pierre Koffmann and Pied à Terre, with culinary chef Richard Neat, both in London. He also spent years in France working for Joël Robuchon and Les Crayères.

The talented chef opened his first restaurant called Tom Aikens in April 2003 in London’s Chelsea. And in 2005, his second restaurant Tom’s Kitchen was influenced by his upbringing in Norfolk. Tom’s Kitchen currently has four sites across London, one in Birmingham and one international flagship in Istanbul. Muse restaurant opened its doors in 2020. It marks Tom Aikens’ return to experience-led fine dining in an intimate 25-cover converted mews house in the heart of Belgravia London. 

As for his openings abroad, October 2014 saw the launch of his first restaurant The Pawn in Asia (Hong Kong) in partnership with the Press Room Group. And in 2015 the Middle East was next on the list with Pots, Pans & Boards, a collaboration business with  partners Meeras. The Edition Hotel in Abu Dhabi then followed in October 2018 with three concepts: a Mediterranean led restaurant called Alba Terrace, an informal yet informed British rock ‘n’ roll steakhouse Oak Room, and the all-day dining restaurant Market, which focuses on wellbeing and healthy eating, inspired by Asia, Japan and Korea. He’s also written several cookbooks, including Fish which developed through his global travels to fish markets around the world and conversations with fishermen locally and worldwide.

Tom Aikens

Q. Would you describe yourself as a thrill seeker?

A. Would I? A little bit, yes. I do quite a lot of endurance events like running marathons, ultra-marathons and I also like cycling a lot.

Q. That’s amazing. Can you tell us about your most exciting experience?

A. The one I’ll never forget was when I participated in an ultra-marathon across the Sahara Desert. Meaning, you will run one full marathon each day over a five-day period leading to running two marathons back-to-back in one session. Bear in mind, you will have to cope with temperatures between 45-52 degrees Celsius as well as carrying about 15 kg of gear and food. The average marathon in the desert takes about 5-6 hours, since the terrain is not the most inviting. Sand, rocks, mountains and the unforgiving heat really take a toll on your body, obliterating your feet and even losing a toenail. It’s pretty torturous and painful.

Sahara
Sahara

Q. That’s amazing. Can you tell us about your most exciting experience?

A. The one I’ll never forget was when I participated in an ultra-marathon across the Sahara Desert. Meaning, you will run one full marathon each day over a five-day period leading to running two marathons back-to-back in one session. Bear in mind, you will have to cope with temperatures between 45-52 degrees Celsius as well as carrying about 15 kg of gear and food. The average marathon in the desert takes about 5-6 hours, since the terrain is not the most inviting. Sand, rocks, mountains and the unforgiving heat really take a toll on your body, obliterating your feet and even losing a toenail. It’s pretty torturous and painful.

Q. So why do it then?

A. Ever since I’ve been a kid, I always loved a good challenge. To me, life is all about taking advantage of it. Standing still has never been an option to me. I’d much rather put myself into extreme situations to see what the body and mind come up with. Again, determination is key. Before training for the marathons, I’ve never ran more than 3-miles. But in conjunction with my general level of fitness because I was cycling a lot, I was able to run my first marathon after only 2 months of preparation. In the end, the view and scenery made up for all the struggle leading up to participate.

Q. What was so special about the view?

A. Well, there were many occasions when you ran all by yourself, only equipped with a compass and of course your gear. The stark contrast between being on your own and then suddenly bumping into an oasis is really weird. One moment there is nothing but sand and punishing heat, next thing you know the scenery changes into a prosperous green resort to attract both humans and animals alike. In addition, after the sun sets around 5pm, you will find yourself surrounded by a pitch-black night sky showing a million stars in a way you won’t be able to experience anywhere else.

Cycling

Q. Can you tell me about another experience which has led you out of your comfort zone?

A. Physically even more exhausting than running an ultra-marathon was a 250km cycling ride through the French alps. Burning a mind boggling 10,000 calories during an 11-hour ride really proves the point that you like to push yourself into extremes and test your limits.

Q. Are there any locations you’ve travelled to that left an impression?

A. Absolutely. One of them being Mexico City, where I’ve been invited to by Patrón. I had obviously heard a lot about Mexico, but never experienced it first-hand. Together with a close friend I went to Pujol restaurant, which is one of the top 50 restaurant in the world. The quality of the food and the ingredients just struck me as simply amazing. Also, the city is a very happy place in terms of the people and architecture. Secondly, I have a deep love for Corsica. Not only is it easy to reach being based in London, but it’s very natural and untouched. Corsica provides the most beautiful beaches as well as lots of activities such as cycling, rock climbing and canyoning. Besides the scenery making it one of my go to places nearby, my wife and I just got married there last year.

Mexico City

Q. What are your three favorite global dishes?

A. Well, if I’m allowed to use something from the UK, I would start with fish’n’chips. Even though I didn’t like to eat fish until I was around the age of 22, this dish has always been a favorite of mine. The crisp batter, salt, vinegar and ketchup kind of masked away the taste of fish, which made it very accessible to me as a kid. Secondly, I am deeply in love with the Indian cuisine. Of course, it’s a historical tradition to eat curries over here in the UK, but having visited India several times now, the articulate usage of herbs and spices is still unmatched. Third, having worked in Paris for several years, I would end with my all-time favorite dessert being poached peaches with verbena, almonds and some amazing vanilla ice cream.

Q. If you were to describe London in three dishes, what would those be?

A. When people think of London, there are plenty of dishes that come to mind because of the abundance of cultures that are settled here. Speaking about London specifically, I’d say an Indian dish like Chicken Tikka Masala is most definitely on that list. Because by default, this isn’t a typical Indian dish, but rather it has been altered and tweaked over the course of time to suit the taste of people living here. When people talk about London, they often mention the east end, which leads us to traditional dishes like (jelly deals? Winkles?) and different flavored meat pies. Thirdly, I’d have to put fish’n’chips on this list, again. Even though it’s a national plate, the number of shops in London truly make a point on just how popular it is. 

Q. What are your three favorite places to go to shop in London?

A. I think in terms of shopping, habits have changed quite a lot in the past years. With full use of the internet, people have pulled back from buying from local stores a lot, which truly is a shame. For me as a chef, I still love to roam around the various food markets. Just around the corner for example, you’ll find Chelsea Fishmonger, who’s over-the-top quality has been an institution for a long time now, usually selling out all of his fish by the end of the day. Another obvious mention would be Borough Market, which has become quite touristy over the past years. Nevertheless, it’s a great place providing a variety of shops all gathered under one roof. Lastly, Elisabeth Street just behind Victoria is always worth a visit. You will find lots of small, artisanal shops, restaurants, cakemakers and tea shops in close proximity.

Borough Market
Borough Market

Q. What do you love most about London?

A. I enjoy the almost community feel the city has to it. In that sense, it really is comparable to Paris with its different arrondissements. London is a buzzing, lively and utterly romantic city, with an endless list of beautiful parks, famous museums and its unique architecture. What strikes me the most though, is the fact that due to the wide variety of cultures, you can really smell the distinct scents from the various restaurants of its individual districts.

Q. When you travel, what’s usually the first thing you want to do?

A. When traveling, I like to educate myself. I love to explore the local shops and markets, constantly tasting new dishes and watching different approaches on preparing food.

Q. What are three things you can’t live without while traveling?

A. I always bring my gym stuff with me, which usually leads to me forgetting other important things. But two back rollers, ankle weights and some stretchy bands easily take up half of my bag capacity. Also, when I’m on holiday, I bring a small set of knives with me. I enjoy cooking while on vacation, but 90 per cent of the time, the provided gear will be blunt and unusable. And I won’t forget to bring a camera either. I like to capture memories, and even if we all have smartphones nowadays, the quality of a proper camera is still unmatched.

Q. What are your three favorite cities in the world?

A. One definitely has to be Barcelona. It’s close to London, and it has the most amazing markets. Foodwise, it’s a pretty spoiled place as well. You can obviously go super high end in one of the many 3-star restaurants, but also eat very well without spending too much. Paris, I hold very dearly as well. Clearly, the food scene is incredible; so are the shops and markets. What I love about Paris, is that you can basically walk everywhere. I used to work in Paris in 1994, but I would probably still be able to get around by foot easily, since that is what I enjoyed doing most on my days off. Last but not least: New York. My twin brother, who is also a chef, lives and works there, and since we are very close, it’s always nice to meet up. But of course, it is a very busy and lively city that keeps inspiring me every time I visit.

Q. What’s the best place to party in the world?

A. Easy… There’s only one place, and that has to be Ibiza. I usually go there every summer. Sometimes with the kids and sometimes without, which is nice as well. Before I went all work mode, I used to go there a lot in my early twenties. 10 years ago, we rediscovered the island and can happily report, that by now, they even have a great food scene.

La Granja Ibiza
La Granja - Ibiza

Q. If you would be stuck on a deserted island, what are the three things you couldn’t live without?

A. Well, obviously my kids, my wife, and you guessed correctly… gym gear.

By Hershey Gargash and Emanuel Prestele

Adventures Around the World with Chef Tom Aikens
Leave a Comment